Now, I could re-cut the arms, but they’re 10mm and super expensive. Then I realized I could countersink the motor mounts, which, if you think about it, IS WHAT I SHOULD’VE DONE IN THE FIRST PLACE.
I told my tale of woe to Gab and the testers, and Gab’s response was ‘Why don’t we make the arms fit 8” props if you’re going to recut them’. And I thought, ‘why didn’t you tell me this before I had six frames cut?’ As annoyed as I was I knew well enough that you never go against the siren song of MOAR POWER, so I got to work.
Without the screw head recesses I could narrow the arm vertically while retaining the same strength. And with that thinned down I could also reduce the profile of the arm, so that I could make an 8” arm that was only 8mm longer than the 7” arm. Now you can run all 8’s, all 7’s, or a combination of 8’s and 7’s to maximize power or efficiency.
There was one bit of good news, though. The weight came down to 420g including the damping assembly (V1 was 500 without the damping assembly), just 8g more than Thicc.
So, we started this as a Z Cam drone, but we always had the Komodo in the back of our minds. My buddy Justin had one on preorder (thank heaven for Justin), and he brought it over when he got it. Now, even though I was a pro still photographer for years, video cameras confuse the hell out of me. But even stupid me could see that the Komodo is a game changer. I won’t go on about why since I’m a camera idiot and you have Google, but suffice it to say we’ll have to dedicate our efforts to making this a Komodo carrier now. Good thing it’s a very similar form factor.
The Komodo has two M4 mounting holes on each side at the front of the body. I think those mounting points are so far forward because most users will use big ass lenses and the CG works out better up there, but for our purposes it’s far from optimal. The Z Cam has its mounting points mid-body, and it lines up perfectly for us there.